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Post by ruppluver on Feb 21, 2014 22:14:59 GMT -6
I think,that with more people doing them,there should be one thread where everyone can post how,when,why,what they used etc. This is going to catch on,more & more are doing it.I find it fascinating to read what others are doing to keep the Rupp on the snow. I know the "purists" don't like it when other tracks etc are used,BUT there are sledders who just don't have the money to fork out for 40 year old tracks!! The supply of tracks is drying up,the list is getting longer.The later model tracks & drivers are alot cheaper than the Rupp stuff! Just saying,I can convert my Rupps for less than $100,which includes excellent to like new condition tracks.There are lots of "deals" on the 2.52 drivers/tracks. Start taking advantage of it & convert.Have fun.
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Post by kluth on Feb 22, 2014 6:30:16 GMT -6
Amen. It would be nice to list the businesses which are familiar with machining the drivers also.
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Post by 71rupp on Feb 22, 2014 9:16:03 GMT -6
Good idea Dan, then maybe everyone can have some measurement to go by, and options to choose which suspension to go with.
Pretty well any machine shop will do the drivers. A fellow I know did it in his home shop. I think it was $20 per driver. He said it required the old fashion steel cutter on the lathe, the carbine ones would just melt the plastic.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2014 9:37:15 GMT -6
if you had the machine shop guy trim a little off the outside diameter of the standard 8 tooth to get a little more clearance, would that hurt or change the pitch any?
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Post by 71rupp on Feb 22, 2014 13:56:42 GMT -6
If that question is for me, I m not 100% sure. I would think it would change the pitch, but it might still work if only a little was cut.
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Post by ruppluver on Feb 22, 2014 19:18:31 GMT -6
My friend,who is an engine type guy,has an old turning lathe.Yes,he uses the steel cutters also when he does mine. He has never given me a price for doing any lathe work.He likes a challenge & it makes him think on how he is going to do my projects. So far,he has been really good when I bring him stuff to do.We both have the same thing in common,both are retired.I write him a check every now & then & he seems quite happy.But he did say,for anyone else,it's $40 an hour. That plastic,doesn't cut the best,but it's do-able.
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Post by krazy on Feb 22, 2014 19:45:39 GMT -6
Guys, the best way I have found to get extra track clearance is to lower the front axle. You can lower it 3/4" and still get all your bolts in the side of the tunnel. You will need to make a pocket to protect the lowered chain case, remove some of the flange from the bearing cup on the other side and relocate the motor mount under the belt enough to clear belt. It's really not that difficult to do. You will be able to run up to a 1 1/4" paddle track or put tunnel protectors in there and run studs. I've done this a couple times-it works. Any questions just ask or call. Joe 906-341-8122
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Post by ruppluver on Feb 22, 2014 20:42:03 GMT -6
Thanks Joe!! That info is great.
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Post by ruppluver on Nov 13, 2014 13:25:36 GMT -6
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Post by snosnake on Nov 14, 2014 12:34:34 GMT -6
You can use the 74-78 Rupp drivers and and the old Rupp shaft that's in the sled. If you do not use studs clearance is not a problem. If you want studs do what Joe said.
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Post by BeatUpRupp on Nov 20, 2014 11:31:37 GMT -6
Using a '91 Polaris Indy SKS 500 133" skid with Yamaha 8 tooth involute drivers and a .75" lug track is a TIGHT fit but it does clear. I have a few things to nail down with the conversion yet, but it looks like it will work out just fine. I'm using existing holes for the front skid mounting and boring a new hole for the rear mounting point that is a couple inches further back. I'll be sure to post all the specifics once I test that it will all work out.
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