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Post by zixxerboy on Aug 3, 2008 20:33:44 GMT -6
I have a 76 Rupp 340 Sprint (Sport in the US?). It has low compression which I think might have been caused by a burnt piston due to leaking old crank seals.
Anyway it has a Chaparrel / Fuji motors corp engine that I would like to pull the head off of and I'm wondering about replacement parts.
Just how tough are they to find?
All help appreciated.
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Post by RuppParts on Aug 3, 2008 21:02:30 GMT -6
Zixx, I have quite a bit in stock to redo your top end.....
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Post by zixxerboy on Aug 4, 2008 8:00:15 GMT -6
How much for:
- head gasket (per jug or sold as a pair?)
- crank seals
- heaven forbid - piston and rings
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Post by RuppParts on Aug 4, 2008 9:05:53 GMT -6
Zixx, you have a pm
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Post by zixxerboy on Aug 4, 2008 14:20:28 GMT -6
Pulled the jugs. Turns out it swallowed a small nut. Not sure where from yet but it was there all mashed up along with two broken piston skirts.
My guess is it swalled something that hurt the skirts, which made it run poorly/quit. It settled in the bottom and got lodged again as I turned the engine one way and another coming out.
I'm this far and want to get the cases apart the clean them out. Anyone know if need to flywheel (one end) and inner chev half (other end) from the crank in order to split the cases?
I'm about to check your pm RPM tHnaks.
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Post by wigman25 on Aug 4, 2008 14:56:07 GMT -6
Hey Zixx - you will have to remove the flywheel and everything else from the crankcase in order to split the bottom end. I would strongly advise you do it, you probably have some crap floating around down there and you need to check those bearings for any damage. Good luck with the rebuild!! Brandt is a great guy to deal with for this stuff. Wig
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Post by zixxerboy on Aug 9, 2008 6:49:05 GMT -6
Thanks wigman
Can you offer any insight as to pulling those bits?
The inner chev wasn't obvious and the nut on the flywheel hasn't budged. I heated the nut and had a large pipe on my wrench but... I gave up before I busted something.
Is brute force and ignorance really the proper course of action?
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Post by Ruppsforever on Aug 9, 2008 8:38:25 GMT -6
Impact wrench.
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Post by bankRUPPt on Aug 9, 2008 17:11:55 GMT -6
You'll need a clutch puller for the inner clutch sheave. I'm not really up on these models, does it have a hex clutch or what?
You shouldn't have to heat up the flywheel nut and use a cheater bar, it should come right off. Is it a Xenoah engine in these? That should be right hand thread, where the Tohatsu was left hand thread. Make sure you're turning it the right way.
An impact can screw up the crank. The hammering can can twist it out of phase or twist the lobe on the knuckle pin.
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Post by Ruppsforever on Aug 9, 2008 19:09:38 GMT -6
Normally an impact hardly even has to work to zap the nut off. I know what you mean though if one is stuck as his is. I always have the flywheel puller on it and zap it with the impact. I use the Xenoah flywheel puller so its real easy to hold the flywheel with the handle of the puller and with the other hand zap the nut with the impact.
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Post by wigman25 on Aug 10, 2008 8:47:04 GMT -6
I always used a puller with the impact wrench, works every time, one little touch of the impact wrench and they pop right off. I wouldn't crank down on it with the impact, though. Like Eddie says, you can damage the crank. Make sure you put some never-sieze on the crank when you put the flywheel and clutch sheave back on - it makes the parts seat better when you torque them down and they will pop right off next time you need to disassemble it. Wig
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Post by zixxerboy on Aug 30, 2008 22:37:34 GMT -6
Hello all!
I ended up getting a local shop to use their puller collection to yank both flywheel and inner clutch chev. Half an hour, 30$.
To me that's reasonable. Cheap insurance against pranging something as I remove them with BFI (brute force & ignorance).
Next week both jugs will go to a machine shop to have their IDs checked. I want a really good idea of there size to see if going up one size makes sense. I only have a set of 3 way verniers which are likely not accurate enough. I also need to check that RPM has oversized pistons & rings.
Lastly I found marks on the inner crank bearings and one half of the cases. Looks as though bits got in between those surfaces. I didn't find stuff in between them and there shouldn't be room enough but thats how it looks. Since the bearings are static at this interface it should be OK is my guess but I have good pics to post in order to get your thoughts. How can I post them here? Just links?
Again Thanks for all the help so far. This Rupp WILL run again.
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Post by wigman25 on Sept 1, 2008 9:17:19 GMT -6
Bet you are glad you broke the engine down? The crank can be rebuilt if the bearings are damaged, your machine shop buddy can probably help you with that. Good luck on the project! Wig
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