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Post by nitrofa340 on Sept 28, 2008 19:41:41 GMT -6
Geez it is slow around here lately. Lets liven things up. Anyone have any opinions regarding multi-angle helix's and possible ET/performance gains that might be found?
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Post by bankRUPPt on Sept 28, 2008 20:55:22 GMT -6
Nope...no opinions at all.
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Post by nitrofa340 on Sept 28, 2008 21:00:55 GMT -6
Nope...no opinions at all. Ed your no fun anymore. |
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Post by bankRUPPt on Sept 28, 2008 21:30:21 GMT -6
Nope...no opinions at all. Ed your no fun anymore.  What about thunder shift kits or something? Anybody ever use one. I'm sure the old school tuners and the guys that actually think the hex clutch is a great clutch automatically won't like them. I'm going to try one this year if I can make it too a few test and tune days up at the races. You can add and subtract weight anywhere through the shift profile for an optimum shift, how can they not work awesome? It kind of goes on the idea that guys like the hex clutch. You can get the weight good at the bottom and them modify ramp profile to keep it from over shifting on top. No grinding with the Thunder Shift Kit.... |
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magnumforce
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Post by magnumforce on Sept 28, 2008 22:15:49 GMT -6
This is a good thread. Although I only know Arctco now, I have messed with them for the last 8 years or so and don't really care to try and get any gains from the old Arctic system anymore. This is only for the '76 440 Liquid though, I figured out the primary a long time ago. I have best luck (now) with a 57-50 ZRT 800 helix on the 440 but I want to grind it to 57/50/49 then 47 so I don't waist $$$ on a helix that I didn't try first. I needed to step up to 57 because mine spun too much. Now if I can find an Arctco quad 57/55/50/47 I want to try that. I never spoke of it much after I almost got thrown off the board for my opinion on using newer clutches. This may sound dumb,but I believe the 55deg - 50deg shift point will give me the midrange I want from the 200 or so feet mark to the 500'  The Thundershift would work great could really fine tune if I had lots of $$$$$$$ Id have that and the TEAM roller secondary and use real belts. I like the Arctco system myself because I have easy access to parts and quite a bit of experience under my belt with it now and it actually responds with minor adjustments IMHO...I don't want to throw all that away now Last winter I wasted half a winter on the F/A so didn't get as much done as I wanted to on the liquids . When I get over the trials and am satisfied ( or close) I want to move on to the 340 Magnum, I "KNOW" it will run or maybe outrun any of my 440's  |
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Post by nitrofa340 on Sept 30, 2008 6:52:16 GMT -6
Primary clutch
The driving clutch has one main purpose: to control the engine speed in all shift ratios. A pressure spring and centrifugal mechanism work against each other to give the engagement speed, and the flyweights have to overcome the driven clutch pressure to maintain the shift speed. All tuning to obtain the desired engine speed should be done with the driving clutc, by modifying flyweights or changing springs. Keeping the engine on the power curve is the main purpose of the driving clutch.
page 13 of "Clutch Tuning Handbook" by Olav Aaen copyright 1986 revised 1989, 1993, 1995, Oct 1996
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Post by Ruppsforever on Oct 1, 2008 19:26:28 GMT -6
Dale ... I hear you can make a sled go faster. What do you recommend to make my rupp 440 to go faster ?? I think its a 71 Nitro.
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Post by nitrofa340 on Oct 1, 2008 20:52:24 GMT -6
Dale ... I hear you can make a sled go faster. What do you recommend to make my rupp 440 to go faster ?? I think its a 71 Nitro. Josh your a hoot. ;D |
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Post by nitrofa340 on Oct 2, 2008 6:56:25 GMT -6
Dale ... I hear you can make a sled go faster. What do you recommend to make my rupp 440 to go faster ?? I think its a 71 Nitro. The first thing I would suggest you try is a multi-angle helix.  |
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Post by bankRUPPt on Oct 2, 2008 16:11:36 GMT -6
alright, alright... Why would you think a multi angle helix would help out in drag racing?
If, in fact
[/url]
then why would you ever try to change the secondary to get the sled to pull correctly down the stretch?
Let me guess, you've added as much weight as you can and are pulling your best ETs. Although the sled accelerates hard, it seems like there should be more in the last 100'. Answer, multi angle helix! The sled feels more perky on top and the ETs are better.
What happened? Why did the sled turn a better time? Discuss.
It'd be more fun if it was more than just Dale ;D
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Post by Ruppsforever on Oct 2, 2008 16:22:33 GMT -6
Ed, the way it seems to me is that the sled accelerates harder coming off the line for maybe the first 200 ft. The clutches shift out faster is all I can think what happened. I'm not going to put alot of thought into why I just know its faster and thats all I care about.
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Post by nitrofa340 on Oct 2, 2008 21:27:19 GMT -6
Ed, my post above saying the "first thing I would try is a multi-angle helix" was my attempt to be funny. But somehow I think you already know that.  My actual belief on this subject is this: a multi-angle helix is indeed worth trying but should only be done in attempt to fine-tune the sled,...not as the primary means to control engine rpm. It may or it may not net you a quicker ET in a drag racing application. I did find a gain of .08 last winter on one of my sleds by going to a multi-helix with a slightly steeper initial shift angle. Surprisingly the gain was not found in the first 60ft but rather in the mid-range. The mph at the traps remained the same as well, but the ET was better. This was on a race sled of mine that was already dialed in and was already very competitive in its class. Then again, on another one of my race sleds that runs real strong nothing I have tried has worked as well as the straight stock angle on the helix. Every sled is a little different and will respond differently to even indentical clutching set-ups. Only by extensive testing can you find what is the best for that particular sled. There is nothing magical about multi-angle helixes they are just another tuning component to change/try when you are making a serious to get the sled as quick as possible. It may or may not work. |
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Post by bankRUPPt on Oct 3, 2008 20:48:29 GMT -6
Surprisingly the gain was not found in the first 60ft but rather in the mid-range. The mph at the traps remained the same as well, but the ET was better. Do you think if you kept that initial angle and then the angle at the area where you found the gains and then maintained it the rest of the way you would notice gains on top? If the angle still keeps lessening towards the top of the ramp it could be putting extra side pressure on the clutch you could do without. |
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Post by nitrofa340 on Oct 5, 2008 19:44:47 GMT -6
Surprisingly the gain was not found in the first 60ft but rather in the mid-range. The mph at the traps remained the same as well, but the ET was better. Do you think if you kept that initial angle and then the angle at the area where you found the gains and then maintained it the rest of the way you would notice gains on top? If the angle still keeps lessening towards the top of the ramp it could be putting extra side pressure on the clutch you could do without. Ed you could very well be correct. |
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Post by romanowski on Oct 6, 2008 18:04:32 GMT -6
This is a good topic, CLUTCHING IS EVERYTHING.......... Dale, as you know I'm a hex clutch junkie from the start, everything I race has the hex, i have tried some helix multiangles in the past couple years and have had some promising results, my challange this year is to keep my oval racer trail twister on the power peak for 5 laps, my tried and true drag racing set up is gunna get shelved as soon as we get ice this winter I need a set up that is less agressive and back shifts better.
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