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Post by rupp838485 on Jan 3, 2016 14:20:40 GMT -6
Since I had the motors out of 2 of our race sleds and have changed the motor mounts in the Nitro II to 7/8 Arctic Cat to fit in a 102 comet. I decided to see where the secondary was as far as being straight/level. Well it is 5/32s off in the rear not only on the Nitro II but on our F/A. I then checked our other 2 F/As one was off and one was straight. Has anyone checked the secondary and shimmed it straight? Being that far off can really affect the shifting and speed and with not having a jackshaft every little thing helps.
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Post by kerry on Jan 3, 2016 16:12:47 GMT -6
My one nitro with a 440 had a 102 on it too.The engine had 4 spacers about 3/16 thick between it and the motor plate to allow the belt clearance enough to be removed.So to shim the secondary did you have to loosen off the whole gearcase and shim between it and the tunnel? Just curious.Good thing to check.I do know on mine the whole drive line spins real easy, much easier than my 2004 Panther.
Kerry
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Post by rupp838485 on Jan 3, 2016 18:03:56 GMT -6
I took a 2 foot square and went off the front motor mount I also used a 2 foot level. I am using stainless steel 7/16 inch washers because of their thickness and they will fit over the square part of the bolt. Removed the clutch brace then loosened the 4 bolts. This is what it took on our F/A to get the clutch straight. Standing in front of the sled 2 washers top bolt, 3 washers bottom on the back side 0 washers top and 2 washers on the bottom. I will be making a clutch alignment tool once I am done.
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Post by mrmotors on Jan 3, 2016 20:33:41 GMT -6
How did your adjustments affect the alignment to the track drive shaft and that lower bearing in the chain case? I will need to check mine when I am assembling them.
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Post by rupp838485 on Jan 3, 2016 20:56:14 GMT -6
I will let you know. Going to work on our Nitro IIs secondary tomorrow.
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Post by kerry on Jan 3, 2016 21:26:06 GMT -6
How did your adjustments affect the alignment to the track drive shaft and that lower bearing in the chain case? I will need to check mine when I am assembling them. I had a similar thought to this as the adjustment would transfer all the way to adjusting the track tension to center the track in the end I woulod expect.I mentioned my drivetrain spins real easy so I'm thinking it is pretty good for a vintage rider.Having said that tho if you are looking at ways to gain easy horsepower to the track maybe I outta look at my Panther and see just how square it is.Never know.Great thread!! Kerry |
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Post by mrmotors on Jan 3, 2016 22:19:54 GMT -6
I had 2 thoughts on this. If the tunnel/bulkhead are buggered at the chaincase mounting points making them not square, spacing it back to square should make it good. The other side is, if the tunnel and bulkhead are pretty square, maybe spacing the chaincase like that would put a bind on the lower chaincase bearing and shaft?? Just a thought, can you check to see if the top of the chaincase itself is twisted up? That sheave setup hanging out in air is a big lever on that chaincase...
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Post by rupp838485 on Jan 4, 2016 19:40:35 GMT -6
Just some thoughts. If the bearings on both ends of the drive shaft were fixed/pressed in like on a Polaris I would be concerned. We have a little movement in both ends on the Rupp. Checked the bottom sprocket in chain case looks ok. Will find out when I put the motor back in. I am also running a Aluminum drive shaft with a R-Track on the F/A. The Nitro II 440 went well only needed one washer to square the clutch up will check the Nitro II 340 in the next couple of days. Randy
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Post by kerry on Jan 4, 2016 22:35:41 GMT -6
The chaincase shaft seal will likely give you a clue if it is too much.If it doesnt leak cant be too far out.
Kerry
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