|
Post by redleader on Dec 30, 2007 8:30:10 GMT -6
Has anyone had great success with the rupp clutch? On what engine and which version of clutch? Share with us your trials!
|
|
|
Post by snosnake on Dec 30, 2007 8:37:52 GMT -6
The Rupp clutch is a big power robber. A comet Duster will work much better with out having to change anything on the sled. The comet open face clutch (102 and others)will work good too for trail riding on the bigger horse power sleds but you may have to alter some sleds to make it fit. The hex clutch will work the best for racing.
|
|
|
Post by redleader on Dec 30, 2007 8:56:31 GMT -6
Dont you have to balance the clutch with the horsepower of the engine? I mean to say...The 108 pro is probaly the best racing clutch ever designed. But if you do not have the horsepower to run it, whats the sense in using it. On the other hand, if all you have is a rupp clutch and you have a 73 magnum making tons of power, should you buy a new clutch? And if you do what?
|
|
|
Post by snosnake on Dec 30, 2007 9:30:09 GMT -6
You can run any of the comet open face clutches on any sled. You replace weights and ramps to match the motor preformance. I say the hex clutch for racing as it is the most tuneable clutch out there. What clutch should you run on a 73 magnum. I would say the clutch you have the most ramps and weights for. Be it a comet or a Hex.
|
|
|
Post by redleader on Dec 30, 2007 10:41:58 GMT -6
That is good info. You can wrap up a lot of money in ramps and weights and a lot of time in testing. Has anyone spent a bunch of time tuning a rupp clutch or a comet clutch on a 73 magnum? How about a 71 800. The original 11r is a horrible clutch. What have you guys tried for clutches on 800's?
|
|
|
Post by bankRUPPt on Dec 30, 2007 19:48:25 GMT -6
* The hex clutch will work the best for racing. * I say the hex clutch for racing as it is the most tuneable clutch out there. Hmmm....do we dare tackle this in " The Red Zone"? After all, that's what it's for! How many people actually think the Hexer is a better racing clutch than the 108 Comet? The 108 is a larger diameter clutch. The gearing can be lowered for a better take-off and maximum speed can still be achieved because the final gear ratio will still be the same. The 108 is completely tuneable throughout the RPM range. Either by the various springs available through Comet or the aftermarket, or through flyweights with different profiles and weights. Weights are available with different balances, either with more weight at the fulcrum, or with more weight at the end. Shift kits are available to alter the weight of the arm all the way through the shift profile. Is the 108 heavier, Yep. Does it fit on all sleds without modification, Nope. But the benefits of using one will far outweight the cons...
|
|
|
Post by snosnake on Dec 30, 2007 20:28:37 GMT -6
* The hex clutch will work the best for racing. * I say the hex clutch for racing as it is the most tune able clutch out there. Hmmm....do we dare tackle this in " The Red Zone"? After all, that's what it's for! How many people actually think the Hexer is a better racing clutch than the 108 Comet? The 108 is a larger diameter clutch. The gearing can be lowered for a better take-off and maximum speed can still be achieved because the final gear ratio will still be the same. The 108 is completely tune able throughout the RPM range. Either by the various springs available through Comet or the aftermarket, or through flyweights with different profiles and weights. Weights are available with different balances, either with more weight at the fulcrum, or with more weight at the end. Shift kits are available to alter the weight of the arm all the way through the shift profile. Is the 108 heavier, Yep. Does it fit on all sleds without modification, Nope. But the benefits of using one will far outweight the cons... The ramps and weights are the same thing on a Comet clutch. The ramps and weights are separate on a Hex clutch there for making the hex clutch more tune able. I will admit the Comet is more durable then the Hex clutch and will handle more horse power but then most vintage sleds have less then 80 HP.
|
|
|
Post by bnitro on Dec 31, 2007 11:57:57 GMT -6
The ski doo tra clutch is a very tunable clutch and it doesn't wear out like the comet type. It works very much like a hex clutch but much improved.Like the 108 it is large and won't fit a lot of older sleds. I'm not a big fan of the comet clutch because they wear and you can't tune weight and ramp profile independently. I run a hex clutch because that's what I learned with and that's what I have parts for but boy they are constant maintenance and those bushings are troublesome. If you doubt the potential for the hex clutch look in the f/a stock class winners circle.
|
|
|
Post by tmkruger77 on Jan 2, 2008 21:35:40 GMT -6
Over the pass 20 years we have used all kinds of cluthes, from the expensive HRP 4 tower & Micro belmonts to the comet dusters. I will have to say that the polaris clutch has to be one of the most reliable and easy to tune clutches out there. They are probally the best clutch for the money and there are so many of them out there. Weights and springs are reasonably priced too. We use them on our small open mods that are cranking out 175hp and they still hold up. You couldn't give me a AC hex clutch. I think we have a 5 gallon pail of used bushings laying around somewhere.
|
|
|
Post by bankRUPPt on Jan 2, 2008 21:53:37 GMT -6
I'm not a big fan of the comet clutch because they wear and you can't tune weight and ramp profile independently. You're right, you can't. But there is also no need to. The profile of the weight riding up the roller is like the ramp. You can change the weights at different points of the ramp to make adjustments across the powerband. It seems easier than making ramp profile changes. I do like the TRA clutch...I works backwards from the Hex clutch and has improved shift on top end. The buttons do wear out though and need replaced just like in a comet. I've owned several Ski Doos with the TRA and they all rattle like crazy after a few hundered miles....Especially the big twins.
|
|
|
Post by tmkruger77 on Jan 2, 2008 22:29:28 GMT -6
You can if you buy a set of thundershift weights for them
|
|
|
Post by by on Jan 9, 2008 0:09:22 GMT -6
how would you set one up for racing a c-108 anyways
|
|
|
Post by wigman25 on Jan 9, 2008 9:03:49 GMT -6
I run mostly L/C Rupps, and I've used the 102C for years and have had great luck with them as far as durability. I don't race, tho, so I'm not sure how good they are for the 500 ft runs. I do know that it coast me a fortune to dial it in for trail riding so that it was managable on the trails but really accellerated on the lakes from a dead stop. Much better than the Cat clutch once I got it set up properly.
|
|
|
Post by by on Jan 12, 2008 3:21:24 GMT -6
what set up do you havei n your c102 i just put one on my 76 nitro L.C any help thanks -fan
|
|
|
Post by snosnake on Jan 15, 2008 20:50:48 GMT -6
This is a quote from the general board -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK guys. I've been clutching newer sleds for years but the vintage bug has bit. Been clutching my "magnum fc" and my trailtwister. Last year I bought 3 new 102c's and tried everything in them.. heavy weights big springs, light stuff, stuff guys are using at eagle river. Did not like any of it and thought I got all I could get. Bolted the hex back on and picked up 3 mph and pulled alot harder (83 on radar with the Twister, pretty good I think). So the comet is back on the shelve for now and I have 8 hex clutches, a ton of weights and almost all the springs. As you know the hex has a small rollers or the larger roller set up. I've been wanting to try a larger roller set up in the fan so I set one up with 106 weights and a green spring, same as eltigre 500 F/A. Wow, what a difference. Loads the motor hard and pulls alot harder. I have not had it on the gun or watch yet but am looking for feedback on what you guys have found???
|
|
|
Post by rog929 on Jan 16, 2008 10:46:48 GMT -6
I must say, I have not given up on the comet and will play with it another day once I feel I get all I can out of a hex. I should be a better clutch once dialed in but man I threw everything at it!! I even did an 1 3/8 belt set up with a new cat secondary.. should use a set up close to a newer cat 440 fan right?? not!!! ran weights in a comet from 42 all the way to 64 grams. Helixes all the way from straight 40 to 62 start. Just never could get it to come out as hard as the hex. The hex does feel like it hold the shift off engagement a little too long. You can actually hear and feel it start to shift. I guess I'm at the point I start molesting hex ramps with a grinder.
|
|
|
Post by speduring on Mar 3, 2008 20:08:33 GMT -6
I just bought a 73 magnum 440 with 431 original miles on it & was last raced back in 74. it was recentley delivered to me & I started it today. heres my question ,I not a rupp collector untill now & I was told it has the original clutch on it, assuming it is the correct 1973 clutch there are no weights,or bolts on the 3 dogs. was this a common thing to remove them back in 73 or should there be weights & bolts on them. thanks mike. durocar@aol.com
|
|
|
Post by Sticks on Mar 3, 2008 20:20:20 GMT -6
Were did you find a 73 mag? I'm soooooo jelous
|
|
|
Post by RuppParts on Mar 4, 2008 6:52:42 GMT -6
The 73 Magnum driver unit should have 4 weights on weight cover
|
|
|
Post by speduring on Mar 4, 2008 9:37:22 GMT -6
do you have the 4 weights you talk about that I need for sale?. I found it on ebay,the guy put it on 2 times & kept lowering his reserve. no one bought it so I contacted him & we came to a deal on price. I have been looking for one for a couple of years now, I wanted a near perfect condition unmolested sled that didnt need a restoration. this is the one!!!. its great!!!
|
|