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Post by 2dawgs on Mar 2, 2015 0:55:02 GMT -6
Awsome, how the heck do you guys get those engines so clean.
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 2, 2015 5:44:39 GMT -6
Awsome, how the heck do you guys get those engines so clean. Thanks 2dawgs. I bead blast almost all the engine parts. It is a long drawn out process but worth it in the end. |
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 6, 2015 5:40:27 GMT -6
Just about ready to start putting it back together. I did get the patch panel from Bill Stull & got it welded in last night. Hope to blast & paint the bulkhead tonight?
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Post by ruppeagle on Mar 6, 2015 8:06:32 GMT -6
Great job on the Nitros. Like all the rebuild pics
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 13, 2015 16:15:41 GMT -6
Great job on the Nitros. Like all the rebuild pics Thanks ruppeagle! Just got back from the Bahama's last night so not much progress on the 2nd Rupp till today. Coming together.....   |
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 16, 2015 4:29:28 GMT -6
Skid almost done & jackshaft & secondary installed.   |
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 19, 2015 15:12:04 GMT -6
Will be putting a newer track from an Indy in this one. Found one from a TXL Indy. Will the earlier Indy tracks work?
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Post by Johnny Speed on Mar 19, 2015 16:42:56 GMT -6
Your drive sprockets will have to be relocated also wheels in the suspension will have to be relocated to miss the drive lugs
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Post by Johnny Speed on Mar 19, 2015 18:05:41 GMT -6
[attachment id="2661" thumbnail="1 Attachment DeletedIf the drive lugs are in the center of the track you will need to relocate the drive sprockets |
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 21, 2015 16:52:31 GMT -6
Decided to have the crank rebuilt which should be done in a week or so but had to set the engine in its place so it felt at home. Also, did find an Indy track which I should have next week.   |
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 24, 2015 16:42:57 GMT -6
I got the Indy track & everything for the conversion looks pretty straight forward except for the idler wheels (if that is the correct term) for the top of the track. They line up directly on the drive lugs. Cant move them in & moving them out will put them right on the windows -if that makes any sense? How did you adjust yours Johnny Speed? Pictures may help show what I am trying to explain?    |
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Post by Johnny Speed on Mar 24, 2015 19:14:04 GMT -6
Move them inward so they ride between the drive lugs in the same location as the drive sprockets, I did not use the stock suspension ,I updated to a newer suspension, you will have to cut the metal support arms at the shaft and reweld them inward, there was a post with pictures on this board somewhere, anyone find it?
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Post by Ruppsforever on Mar 24, 2015 20:08:16 GMT -6
We have done quite a few of these conversions. We use a 75 F/A swing arm. It only has one wheel and it is directly in the center. We didn't have to move anything.
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Post by mrmotors on Mar 24, 2015 22:05:43 GMT -6
Just an FYI about welding on that pivot shaft, if you elect to cut the arms and move them inward to get your proper clearance, after you re-weld them, make sure the cross tube for the pivot shaft has stayed straight. I have found out working on my F/A pivots that there basically isn't anything really straight/square on them and they will drive you nuts trying to make and then keep them that way. The easier thing to do is remove the stub bolts for the idler wheels and machine yourself an axle to go in between the 2 mounting brackets and bolt it in place. That way no heat or welding is involved to screw up your paint and warp the tube. This is what I did to use a 4 banded track.
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 25, 2015 5:33:55 GMT -6
Thanks guys. Looks like the simple way would be the way mrmotors did it by I don't think I will have room between the mounting brackets. Mine are opposite of those with the angled part to the inside. Will check it out tonight but think I will end up cutting them off & moving them which shouldn't be too much trouble.
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1976 NItro
Mar 25, 2015 10:35:29 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by lemans1955 on Mar 25, 2015 10:35:29 GMT -6
Just mount a single wheel in the center like the 75 f/a. Works a lot easier in the long run, I had this same issue with my nitro ii track conversion. Bought a f/a swing arm from rick after two attempts at modifying the stock arm.
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Post by kerry on Mar 25, 2015 12:58:35 GMT -6
Just an FYI about welding on that pivot shaft, if you elect to cut the arms and move them inward to get your proper clearance, after you re-weld them, make sure the cross tube for the pivot shaft has stayed straight. I have found out working on my F/A pivots that there basically isn't anything really straight/square on them and they will drive you nuts trying to make and then keep them that way. The easier thing to do is remove the stub bolts for the idler wheels and machine yourself an axle to go in between the 2 mounting brackets and bolt it in place. That way no heat or welding is involved to screw up your paint and warp the tube. This is what I did to use a 4 banded track. That looks like a good idea for tying the two arms together even on a stock track setup to stiffen them up.3 of the suspensions I have those arms were bent.It also looks like you have spring stops? welded to keep the springs from moving all over the tube.I was going to see if I could use a plastic wrap liner inside the spring to act as a quietener/protector on the tube.Haven't got to it yet. Kerry |
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Post by leisure67 on Mar 26, 2015 5:01:11 GMT -6
I did cut them off & move them in 3/4" so the lined up between the drive lugs. Everything went well & looks like it should work just fine now. Looks like I will also need to move the two wheels at the front in too. Also, the crank is done. Should be here in a few days.    |
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Post by mrmotors on Mar 26, 2015 10:05:54 GMT -6
Nice job on that, looks good. Before you get that dude all painted up again, make sure your pivot shaft still slides through with no issues. I made new shafts for mine and had to push the thing around in the press and hone the bore of it to get it sorted out again.
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Post by mrmotors on Mar 26, 2015 10:06:06 GMT -6
Drat-double post.
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